Walking the Via Peuceta from Bari to Matera

I’ve never been the outdoorsy type—you know, the kind who enjoys being in the wilderness and calls sweating “fun.” Hiking? Not even on my radar. That is, until my 40th birthday started looming on the horizon and suddenly, I felt the need to prove something—to myself, mostly. A bold move. A challenge to scream, “Hey, I’m still young, fit, and up for an adventure!”

And so, with a mix of nerves and excitement, I laced up my shiny-new hiking boots (yes, I broke them in with some city strolls beforehand—rookie mistake avoided!) and set off on a journey I never imagined: 170 km, 7 stages, a 6kg backpack, and the Rocky IV soundtrack on my phone. Spoiler: It was epic!

What is the Via Peuceta?

The Via Peuceta is a stunning trail  for hiking in Italy, leading from the Basilica of San Nicola in Bari to the UNESCO-listed town of Matera. Along the way, it meanders through charming villages like Bitetto, Cassano delle Murge, and Santeramo in Colle—hidden gems brimming with art, history, and cultural treasures that rarely make it to glossy travel magazines (be honest, had you heard of them before?)

The name Peuceta refers to the Peuceti, an ancient tribe that once called the provinces of Bari and parts of Basilicata home. So, this is no solemn pilgrimage trail for saints as often happens; instead, it’s all about the joy of discovering gorgeous landscapes, quaint towns, and a bit of history on the side. 

The Via Peuceta is one piece of the Cammino Materano, a network of six hiking routes, all leading to the iconic city of Matera:

• Via Peuceta: from Bari to Matera, 170 km in 7 days
• Via Ellenica: from Alberobello to Matera, 170 km in 8 days
• Via Sveva: from Trani to Matera, 200 km in 8 days
• Via Jonica: from Leuca to Matera, 300 km in 10 days
• Via Lucana: from Paestum to Matera, 400 km in 23 days
• Via Dauna: from Termoli to Matera: 400 km in 22 giorni

Right now, only the Via Peuceta and Via Ellenica are fully operational.

Why I chose this route

As a total hiking newbie—and doing it solo, no less—I needed a trail that was safe, forgiving, and relatively flat. The Via Peuceta in Apulia checked all the boxes. But let’s be real—what really sealed the deal was the promise of mouthwatering Apulian food and wine at every stop. A girl’s gotta refuel after all those kilometers, right?

And then there was the charm of the route itself, winding through a mix of places I’d never even heard of before – Bitetto, . (Bitetto? It’s a real place!) Add in the bonus that at each stage of the trail, there’s a local contact— a referente di tappa, a sort of of guardian angel ready to help if needed. By the time I started, I had them all saved in my phone, because you never know!

What to expect from the Via Peuceta

Imagine walking through a living postcard—seriously, no exaggeration. Endless horizons painted in every shade of green, pops of wild yellow and pink flowers, and that signature red earth crunching under your boots. Surrounding you? Dry-stone walls, vineyards, almond trees, and olive groves as far as the eye can see.

Each day kicks off at dawn. It’s just you, your backpack, and the soft crunch of your boots as you set off to conquer the next leg of this adventure. The path is easy to follow, thanks to the splashes of yellow and green paint marking the official route.

Here’s a quick breakdown of each stage:

Stage 1: from Bari to Bitetto (17 km)

A good chunk of this first leg takes you through Bari’s not-so-pretty suburbs and industrial zones. Expect quite some bit of garbage, and at one point, you’ll even find yourself walking on an expressway. That’s why many prefer to take the train from Bari to Modugno and skip this part altogether. 

But hey, I wanted the full experience—grit, garbage, and all. If you’re like me, here’s a tip: do this stage on a Sunday morning when the traffic is a bit more, let’s say, forgiving.

Now, the good news: once you leave the urban chaos behind and hit the countryside, it’s like entering a completely different world—peaceful, scenic, and full of charm.

Highlights

• The Church of San Nicola in Bari, the official starting point of the route
• Casale di Balsignano, a 10th-century fortified farm estate that’s as fascinating as it sounds
• The Church of Santa Maria la Veterana in Bitetto featuring gorgeous medieval frescoes 
• Mino Marrone’s workshop, a delightful little stop where Mino crafts miniatures from recycled materials. He also makes bracelets in the Via Peuceta colors as keepsakes for pilgrims.

Stage 2: from Bitetto to Cassano delle Murge (25 km)

Here we go, the kilometers are starting to add up! This section takes you through a beautiful sea of olive trees, with the occasional rustic farmhouse or iconic trullo popping up to keep things interesting. Some people say this part feels a bit repetitive, but seriously, how could you ever get bored in the stunning Apulian countryside? 

Just a heads up: there’s not a lot of shade, so be sure to pace yourself and take breaks to recharge. You’ll definitely need to save some energy for the uphill climb near the end to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria degli Angeli. After that, it’s a short jaunt into Cassano delle Murge. Trust me, once you make it to the top, you’ll forget all about the tired legs—it’s totally worth it!

Highlights: 

• The Sanctuary of Santa Maria degli Angeli, sitting above a cave where, back in 1250, a priest had a vision that led to the discovery of an ancient fresco of the Virgin Mary. It’s been a major pilgrimage site ever since.

Stage 3: from Cassano delle Murge to Santeramo in Colle (22 km)

This stage takes you through the peaceful Bosco di Mesola, a shaded woodland that feels like a cool, refreshing hug after the sunny olive groves from yesterday. The forest is full of life with trees, wildflowers, and the calming sounds of nature. But don’t get too comfortable—the scenery changes again, and soon you’ll be surrounded by wide-open fields and rolling pastures that stretch as far as the eye can see.

For a break, stop by Arome B&B, tucked away in the heart of the countryside. You can relax on the porch, sip a drink and chat with the friendly owner Giovanni. After that, it’s onward through the Galietti pine wood, and before you know it, you’ll be arriving in Santeramo in Colle.

Highlights:

• Santeramo’s traditional fornelli: Bby day, these are regular butcher shops selling fresh cuts of meat, but come nightfall, they transform into casual eateries. Here’s how it works: you pick out your favorite cut, they grill it up right there, and you enjoy it hot off the grill. Delicious!

Stage 4: from Santeramo in Colle to Altamura (23 km)

Say goodbye to the woods and olive groves as you step into the striking high Murgia plateau. This rugged, almost otherworldly landscape is full of dramatic rock formations, mysterious sinkholes, and caves steeped in history. Some of these caves even hold dinosaur footprints and the remains of a man who lived between 180,000 and 130,000 years ago!

The terrain is mostly flat, with fertile farmlands scattered across the wildness, while vibrant wildflowers add cheerful splashes of color. Make sure to stop at Masseria Scalera, where you’ll be treated to a delicious variety of freshly made cheeses. If you’re lucky, you might even catch the magical process of mozzarella-making in action!

Highlights:

• Museo dell’Uomo di Altamura, displaying an exact replica of the Neanderthal man found in nearby caves. It’s a fascinating glimpse into life from tens of thousands of years ago.
• Altamura Cathedral, a 13th-century gem commissioned by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II and showcasing a stunning blend of architectural styles. 
• Forno Santa Chiara, a 15th-century bakery where the famous Altamura bread is baked fresh daily. The scent of warm loaves and the crunch of the crust as it’s sliced will have your mouth watering before you even take a bite!

Stage 5: from Altamura to Gravina in Puglia (20km)

This fifth stage is a nice, easy ride—a bit of a breather before the more challenging final two stages. But don’t think that means it’s any less spectacular! The scenery here is breathtaking, with wide fields of golden wheat, dry-stone walls, and a blend of greens and yellows that melt into the endless blue sky. It’s the kind of view you could just lose yourself in.

A few kilometers outside Altamura, don’t miss a stop at Masseria Casalia, where Mr. Peppino always has a table ready for hikers. It’s the perfect pit stop to recharge for the rest of the journey. 

The trail then takes you through a little woodland and along an ancient paved road, leading you into Gravina in Puglia. This charming town is often called Apulia’s “little Matera” because of its similar look. Its beauty comes from nature but also the action of the Orsini family, who filled the town with charming constructions. One of them, Pier Francesco Orsini, even became Pope Benedict XIII.

Highlights: 

• The massive canyon carved by water over millennia, leaving a dramatic scar in the landscape. A view of rare beauty.
• Ancient rock churches like the Chiesa della Madonna della Stella and the Chiesa di San Michele, where Mass is still celebrated today.
• A journey beneath the town with Gravina Sotterranea to explore ancient cellars, cisterns, and rock churches created when locals quarried tuff stone to build homes and palaces above ground.
• This iconic aqueduct bridge, featured in James Bond: No Time to Die, is one of the most fascinating sights along the Via Peuceta.

Stage 6: from Gravina in Puglia to Picciano (30km)

This stage was one of my absolute favorites, but wow—it was also the toughest! At over 30 kilometers and with a relentless uphill climb to the sanctuary at the end, it definitely tested my limits. 

The day kicks off with a literal high, crossing the aqueduct bridge that spans the deep ravine. From there, the trail weaves through plowed fields and the Bosco della Difesa, one of Puglia’s largest forests, still showing scars from a massive fire in 2017. Along the way, you’ll find a “pilgrim diary” hidden in a little shelter box, a chance to leave a note and feel a connection with other travelers. 

Then, the landscape opens up into endless fields of wheat rolling over gentle hills. It’s a humbling sight—just you, the warm earth beneath your feet, the vast blue sky above, and the sun shining down on your back. And here’s a fun fact: you’re crossing from Apulia into Basilicata! 

The final stretch is a tough, never-ending climb on asphalt to reach the Santuario di Picciano. It’s the kind of uphill grind that makes you question your life choices—but once you finally reach the top, the feeling of accomplishment is unbeatable!

Highlights:

• The landscape: from the ravine and the woodland to the expansive wheat fields, this stage offers some of the most varied and breathtaking views of the entire route.
• Marialaura, the amazing and welcoming owner of Masseria La Fiorita, where I spent the night. Her hospitality, captivating stories, and delicious home-cooked meals were the perfect reward after such a tough day

Stage 7: from Picciano to Matera (30 km)

Technically, this stage starts at the sanctuary of Picciano, but don’t worry—Marialaura will give you a lift to the road at the base, so you can skip it. From there, it’s a mix of asphalt and country paths, with the distant silhouette of Matera drawing you in like a magnet, even when your legs are begging for mercy after all the kilometers you’ve covered. 

Along the way, you’ll pass some charming spots, like the San Giuliano Oasis, an artificial lake created in the 1950s as part of the Marshall Plan to rebuild Europe post-WWII. You’ll also cross a little stream, adding a touch of adventure. Just be mindful of possible muddy stretches—I learned the hard way when one of my shoes decided to stay behind in the muck! 

The last few kilometers are definitely the toughest. The uphill stretches, after nearly 30 km, are a real test of willpower. But then—finally—you’ll see it: the entrance to Matera! If you’re after an easier day, there’s a 15-kilometer shortcut, but honestly, after all this distance, what’s another 30 kilometers?

Highlights:

• Cripta del peccato originale, also called the “Cappella Sistina rupestre” per le meravigliose pitture sulle rocce della caverna, you can reach it con una deviazione di un paio di chilometri.
• Watching the sun set over Matera, the perfect reward after al these kilometers  
• Matera itself, what can I even say? The ancient sassi, the labyrinth of stone alleys… pure magic!

Where to stay along the Via Peuceta route

The Via Peuceta website has you covered with a handy list of places to stay as you trek this beautiful route. From charming bed & breakfasts and cozy farmhouses to affordable hostels and even friendly locals who open their homes to travelers in exchange for a donation, there’s something for everyone.

Here are my suggestions:

Habari Hostel in Bari 

Just a 10-minute stroll from Bari’s old town, Habari Hostel is more than just a place to crash—it’s a feel-good experience! This hostel has been designed as an ethical project, creating job opportunities for young people overcoming challenges, all while providing guests with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. There’s one private room for a little extra privacy and two dorms with comfy bunk beds for those who love making new friends on the road.

More info: habarihostel.com

Casa Ester in Bitetto

A seasoned hiker herself, she knows exactly what walkers need after a long day on the trail—and her home is nothing short of an oasis.You’ll settle into a snug room with two bunk beds, surrounded by thoughtful touches. Expect a delightful Apulian-style aperitivo, a breakfast basket brimming with treats, and a fascinating tour of Bitetto. Casa Ester works on a donation basis, so make sure to leave a generous contribution—it’s worth every cent for the care and effort she puts into hosting.

More info: instagram.com/casaesterbitetto

B&B Le Dimore del Garibaldi in Cassano delle Murge

This lovely B&B blends modern comfort and small-town charm, with sleek, comfortable rooms that are perfect for recharging after a day on the Via Peuceta. Breakfast is included in the price and served at a nearby bar run by the same friendly owner.

More info: dimoredelgaribaldi.it 

B&B La Rosa Blu in Santeramo al Colle

Just steps away from Santeramo’s cathedral, this cozy, family-run B&B provides spacious rooms and warm hospitality.

More info: facebook.com/larosablu.bedandbreakfast 

Casa Xenia in Altamura

Owned and run by Giovanni and Anna, veteran hikers of the Cammino di Santiago, Casa Xenia offers both private and shared rooms in Altamura’s historic center. Giovanni and Anna are also incredibly helpful, providing invaluable tips on the route and all the hidden gems of Altamura.

More info: facebook.com/casaXenia  

B&B Duca Orsini in Gravina in Puglia

Located in a beautifully restored ancient palazzo in the heart of Gravina in Puglia, this B&B is run by Leonardo, the local contact for the Via Peuceta. With a variety of quiet, comfortable rooms to choose from, it’s the perfect place to rest and soak in the unique charm and rich history of Gravina.

More info: ducaorsini.it 

Masseria La Fiorita in Picciano

This small, family-run farm is a haven of organic living, where Marialaura, the passionate owner, shares the beauty of her land and its bounty with every guest. From sheep and cows to horses and ducks, the farm is alive with animals, adding to its rustic charm. A stay here includes a delicious homemade dinner and breakfast crafted from fresh, local ingredients, including milk from their own cows.

More info: masserialafiorita.it/en

Ostello dei Sassi in Matera

Right in the heart of the breathtaking Sassi di Matera, this hostel is a great base for exploring this stunning city while recharging after your trek. The hostel features a shared kitchen, and with a supermarket just around the corner, you can easily whip up your own meals. While there are a few minor drawbacks—such as no power outlets near the beds—it’s still a solid choice for budget-conscious hikers.

More info: facebook.com/OstelloaMatera 

Where to eat on the Via Peuceta

One of the best parts about walking the Via Peuceta? The incredible food and wine traditions of the Apulian villages along the way! And let me tell you, every single stage lived up to the hype.

In Bari, your biggest problem will be deciding what not to eat! Must-try stops include Antico Panificio Fiore for their focaccia barese and Superpizza to try their spaghetti all’assassina (literally, “killer spaghetti”). It’s a Bari specialty: spicy, crispy, and completely addictive. Don’t leave without snagging a cup of sgagliozze (fried polenta slices) from Donna Carmela in Largo Albicocca. The setting? Adorably charming. 

In Bitetto, I refueled at Madre e Terra restaurant, where the pilgrim menu hit the spot. A hearty primo, secondo, and a drink—all for a budget-friendly price. It’s nothing fancy, but after a day of walking, it’s exactly what you need.

The pilgrim menus just got better as I moved along. At Pizzeria al Vecchio Arco in Cassano delle Murge, and Osteria 1881 in Gravina in Puglia, the spreads were really intriguing.

A must-try in Santeramo al Colle is grilled meat at one of the local fornelli, informal butcher-shop-turned-eateries. I recommend Braceria Mimmo e Valeria for an authentic experience. A heads-up: horse meat is a delicacy here. It’s not for everyone, but if you’re feeling adventurous, this is the place to try it!

As for Altamura, I happened to be in town during Federicus Festival, so I opted to sample from the various food stands, which offered an array of delicious street food. If you’re looking for a sit-down restaurant, I’ve heard good things about Antica Osteria Pein Asset, a spot known for its traditional dishes. 

My standout meal of the journey was dinner at Masseria La Fiorita. There’s no menu—just Marialaura working her magic with daily specialties made from local, seasonal ingredients, one more delicious than the other. 

For the final meal in Matera, I chose Il Terrazzino, a nice restaurant overlooking the Sassi. They serve traditional Lucanian dishes, making it the perfect way to cap off your journey through the Via Peuceta.

The best time to go

The Via Peuceta can be walked virtually all year round, but some seasons are definitely better than others. While it’s technically doable in every season, I’d give July and August a hard pass unless you love sweating buckets under a blazing sun. Trust me, the heat is no joke, and it can take the fun (and safety) out of the experience. 

Spring gets a lot of love from locals and seasoned hikers, and it’s easy to see why. The weather is mild, wildflowers are popping up everywhere. That said, I walked it in early October, and it was absolutely perfect. The temperatures were comfortable, the crowds were sparse, and the countryside was still lush from the tail end of summer. 

So, at the end of the day, it’s all about what works for you.

Local events

To make the most of your hike along the Via Peuceta, it’s a good idea to time your trip with some fun local events that happen throughout the year.

One of the most important isFedericus, a grand medieval festival honoring Emperor Frederick II, Altamura’s funder. I was lucky enough to stumble upon it when it was held in October (though it’s typically in spring) and I must say it’s incredible, with Altamura transforming into a 12th-century wonderland, complete with knights in shining armor and locals strolling in medieval costumes.

Visiting during a festa patronale, when a town is in full swing to celebrate its local saint, allows you to immerse yourself in lively processions, music, food, and a magical sense of community. Some of the most important ones include San Nicola in Bari (December 6), the Festa della Madonna della Bruna in Matera (July 2), and the Festa di San Michele Arcangelo in Bitetto (September 28–30).

And if you’re a foodie, you need to visit a sagra (local food festival) celebrating regional flavors. These include the Sagra del Fungo Cardoncello e del Vino Novello in Gravina in Puglia (November 22–23) for mushrooms and wine, and the Sagra della Carne Arrosto in Santeramo al Colle (last week of August) for meat lovers.

Some tips and considerations

Here’s some practical advice to help you make the most of your journey along the Via Peuceta.

1. Do you need to be well trained? 

I didn’t exactly spend months getting ready for this—unless you count a few leisurely strolls around town to break in my new boots. And trust me, I’m no fitness junkie, and I’m definitely carrying a few extra kilos. So if I managed to finish, there’s a good chance you can too. That said, the last two stages are no joke. We’re talking over 30 km a day, which will make you wonder why the hell you decided to do such a thing in the first place.

2. Expect more kilometers than advertised! 

The official length is 170 km, but between detours, exploring your daily destination, and walking to accommodations or restaurants, you’ll quickly rack up extra kilometers. 

3. Bari or Matera: where to start?

You can walk the route in either direction. Look out for the yellow arrows pointing toward Matera and the green arrows leading to Bari. Both are equally rewarding—just follow your preference!

4. On foot or by bike

The Via Peuceta is a slow travel experience that you can enjoy either on foot or by bike.

5. Get a credenziale

Before starting your journey, make sure to obtain the credenziale, a sort of hiker’s passport that grants access to accommodations and restaurants along the route. Just fill out a form on the Via Peceta website ahead of your departure and make a small donation (donations help cover the costs of materials and trail maintenance, as the route is entirely managed by volunteers). The credenziale also allows you to claim the Testimonium, the certificate proving you’ve completed the route. To obtain it, you’ll need to contact the key contact in Matera few days before you finish your trek and it costs €3. 

6. Take advantage of the menù del pellegrino

Almost every stop offers a pilgrim menu for around €15-20, which typically includes appetizers, a main dish, and water. Many hosts also love to surprise you with “just a couple of things” they insist you try—so be prepared to leave the table full and happy!

7. Stay hydrated

Carry at least 3 liters of water daily, especially if you’re walking during warmer months. There are no fountains along the trail, so your water supply is critical. Yes, it’s a bit heavy, but trust me—it’s essential!

8. Backpack transportation

If the thought of carrying your pack for 30 km a day feels daunting, there’s an option to have it transported to your next accommodation. It should cost about €10 per transfer. Contact the local coordinators to have more info and arrange this service.

9. Solo travel is safe

Walking the Via Peuceta solo is perfectly safe. I started alone, but you know what they say about traveling alone and never being alone. By the first night at Casa Ester, I had met other hikers. We bonded quickly and ended up completing the rest of the journey together!

10. Stray dogs and sheep dogs

While I didn’t encounter any stray or sheep dogs along the way, it’s something to be aware of. Stay calm and avoid sudden movements if you do come across them.

11. Local contacts

Here’s a handy list of local contacts—these are the people you can reach out to for advice, assistance, or just a friendly chat along the way:

• Bari: Michele Montaruli | +39 347 7071064
• Bitetto: Ester Giglione | +39 340 6051347 
• Cassano delle Murge: Paolo Racano | +39 388 6074723 
• Santeramo in Colle: Giuseppe Difonzo | +39 338 9980586  
• Altamura: Giovanni Fratusco e Anna Fiore | +39 328 9254928 
• Gravina in Puglia: Leonardo Picciallo | +39 339 7943945 & Rosa Grassi |+39 380 7676235 
• Picciano: Marialaura Castoro | +39 327 7084471
• Matera: Antonio Centonze | +39 328 6481954

12. Reading material

What I’ve shared is just my personal take on the journey. For more details, check out the official website camminomaterano.it and join the Facebook community to share advice and connect with fellow travelers.

Ciao for now,