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France is not the only country to have a spectacle of purple flowers every year, there are some beautiful fields of lavender in Italy, too! Today I’ll take you to a little place in Piedmont where violet fields abound between mid-June and mid-July…

Lavender in Italy

Although lavender is commonly associated with the region of Provence in France, Italy has its own share of violet fields. One of my favorites is a rather unknown area in Piedmont where fields turn into vibrant shades of purple between June and July. It’s called Piedmont’s little Provence and even if it’s close to the prestigious wine district of Barolo, it feels like being a million miles away from it.

Visiting this part of Piedmont during the lavender season is a true feast for the senses. The air is filled with the sweet scent of herbs and the gentle buzzing of bumblebees, while a vibrant palette of purplish tones covers the countryside. Pure magic!

Lavender flowers with bumblebeesThe lavender flowering season usually runs from mid-June to mid-July, although it could vary slightly each year depending on the whims of the weather. Harvest starts around mid-July and the lavender flowers become dried bouquets and essential oils for the cosmetic and herbal industry.

Sale San Giovanni, the capital of Piedmont’s little Provence

The sleepy hamlet of Sale San Giovanni is the capital of this Provençal corner of Piedmont, thanks to its splendid lavender fields that stretch over an area of nearly 100 acres. These cultivations were introduced only a few decades ago in an effort to revamp the territory. The favorable weather conditions of the area and the use of sustainable farming methods did the rest, and now lavender is a precious resource for local farmers, as well as a powerful tourist attraction. Lavender flowers grow together with a variety of aromatic herbs and enkir, the world’s oldest grain variety, dating back to some 12,000 years ago.

The village of Sale San Giovanni in PiedmontThe local municipality has put together four walking trails that allow visitors to admire lavender flowers from up close (here’s the map). They range from 7 to about 10 km and it’s highly recommended to arrive well equipped with comfy shoes and lots of water because temperatures can be really high at this time of the year.

The big event of the lavender season in Sale San Giovanni is the Non Solo Erbe festival (literally, Not Only Herbs). It takes place on the last weekend of June and fills the village streets with stalls selling anything from flowers to essential oils and lavender-based products.  Don’t miss the lavender bread and enkirotto, a risotto made of enkir! During the event, it is also possible to join organized tours to explore the lavender fields. For obvious reasons, the event was canceled this year, but do take note of it for a future trip. 

Local treasures to explore

If these purplish beauties are not tempting enough, there are also some precious artistic treasures to explore in Sale San Giovanni. One is the tiny Chapel of San Sebastiano, right at the entrance to the village. It’s a shrine built in the 14th century when the black plague was raging over Europe and feature splendid frescoes illustrating the idea that death spares no one, however rich or powerful!

A short walk from the chapel leads to Pieve di San Giovanni Battista, sitting on the remains of an ancient pagan temple. It’s dedicated to the patron saint of the village and its austere facade hides some stunning frescoes dating from the 13th-16th centuries.

The Church of San Giovanni Battista in the village of Sale San Giovanni in PiedmontAnother great site to explore is the Chapel of Sant’Anastasia, perched high on a hill just a five-minute drive from the centre of Sale San Giovanni. A group of Benedictine monks built it around the year 1050 and its small apse contains a large fresco from 1493 centered around the Roman martyr Anastasia.

The Chapel of St Anastasia in the village of Sale San Giovanni in PiedmontSale San Giovanni is also home to the castle of the Marquis Incisa di Camerana that dominates the center of the village. The interior is said to be beautiful, but sadly it remains behind locked doors since the castle is a private residence now and cannot be visited. Not to miss is also the Arboreto Prandi, a stunning botanic garden with several local and exotic trees.

The castle of the Marquis Incisa in the village of Sale San Giovanni in PiedmontDemonte

You can see beautiful lavender fields also in Demonte, about an hour’s drive from Sale San Giovanni, in the heart of the Stura Valley. Just bear in mind that lavender plants tend to bloom slightly later here due to the higher elevation. This means that they are likely to be just starting to sprout when in Sale San Giovanni fields have already turned purple!

In Demonte, you can see the oldest lavender businesses in the area, Distilleria Rocchia, which is still in full swing. Back in the 19th century Mr. Giuseppe, the founder, developed an innovative distillation process based on steam injection and today his relative Marco continues to produce high-quality essential oils using the ancient family method. The adjoining shop sells a variety of beautiful lavender-themed gift ideas and excellent herbal products.

The lavender fields of Rocchia Distillery in DemonteThe village is really charming and filled with Provençal touches, most probably due to its proximity to France (the border is less than an hour away). The main street is lined with attractive medieval porticoes that house small shops and cafés.

There are also a number of historical sites to explore that are a testament to Demonte’s interesting past. One of these is the 17th-century Palazzo Borelli, managed by a group of friendly volunteers who will show you secret corners while sharing the story of the noble family that used to live here. The palace is connected to the public gardens by a delightful corridor filled with antique pieces.

One of the corridors of Palazzo Borelli in the village of Demonte in PiedmontNot to miss are also the Church of the Holy Cross and the Church of San Giovanni Decollato, both featuring beautiful frescoed facades and rich interiors.

How to reach Piedmont’s little Provence

Genoa Cristoforo Colombo is the closest airport, about an hour away from Sale San Giovanni, while the drive from Torino Caselle airport is just thirty minutes longer. If you land at Milan Linate or Malpensa, it will take about two and a half hours to reach the destination.

The best way to explore the area is by car. Driving is easy and roads sneak gently across the landscape, making for a picture-perfect summer road trip in Italy.

The road that leads from Sale San Giovanni to Demonte is filled with great places to explore, such as Ceva, an elegant town famed for being the capital of mushrooms, and Mondovì, whose delightful historic center sits on a hill that can be reached with a pleasant funicular ride.

Useful tips

  • Most sites are open to the public only on the first and third Sunday of the month, between May and September, or during special events like the herbal festival.
  • A couple of good B&B’s in the area are B&B Magiche Langhe, a ten-minute drive from Sale San Giovanni, and B&B Il Riccio, a family-run bed & breakfast in Ceva. If you’re looking for a bit of action, then consider B&B Sant’Agostino in the historic centre of Mondovì, halfway between Sale San Giovanni and Demonte. 
  • For a truly unforgettable experience, head to Agriturismo Verdita in the town of Merana (about 1 hour’s drive from Sale San Giovanni), where you can sleep under the stars immersed in a lavender field!
  • Local specialties include agnolotti del plin (ravioli with meat), tajarin (hand-made egg pasta often served with ragù sauce or truffles), brasato al Barolo (slow cooked beef in Barolo wine), and bonet (a sort of pudding with chocolate and amaretti biscuits). Oh, and of course lots of great wines (remember that the area is close to Langhe…). For a good meal, there’s Osteria delle Erbe right at the entrance to Sale San Giovanni. Otherwise, check out Lou Stau in Demonte or Ristorante Italia in Ceva (their vitello tonnato is super!). Oh, and while you’re exploring Demonte, get some sweet treats at Bar Agnello.

Lavender fields in Piedmont

Big hugs from Italy,

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27 Comments

Katy Kuhlwilm 4 July 2020 at 11:05

Loved this. The pictures are beautiful and I had no idea this existed in Italy. Thanks for sharing!

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:34

    Thanks a lot Katy!

Portia Jones 4 July 2020 at 15:51

Wow! I have never heard of this place. This is exactly why I love travel blogs, I really enjoy discovering new destinations across the world. What a lovely article. x

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:33

    Thank you so much Portia! x

Elena Pappalardo 4 July 2020 at 17:29

Wow, I never knew these lavender fields were here! Just stunning. I hope to make it here next year!

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:33

    Yay!! 🙂

Kooky 4 July 2020 at 23:52

They look lovely! Lucky you girl. Thanks for the beautiful photos 🙂

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:32

    Aaw, thank you Kooky!

Amanda OBrien 5 July 2020 at 13:21

I always associate lavender with France – I had no idea there was an area in Italy that was just as beautiful when it comes to lavender – thanks!

Anuradha 10 July 2020 at 01:27

Such a beautiful location and great pictures. Those stone houses, cobbled alleys and flowers are really making me want to visit Italy now. We originally had plans to visit Italy in March just when Covid started, and we had to cancel our trip. Hopefully, we’ll get to travel there again in sometime.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:31

    I hope you’ll be able to visit Italy soon again! x

Linda (LD Holland) 10 July 2020 at 16:31

Thanks for reminding me that France is not the only place where you can travel to see fields and fields of lavender! And visiting lavender fields in Piedmont would mean I can enjoy Barolo wine tasting too. Could that be any more perfect? San Giovanni looks like a gem to explore as well. I must remember to plan my next trip to this part of Italy when the lavender is in bloom in mid June.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:30

    We have our fair share of lavender fields in Italy, too 🙂

Melissa 11 July 2020 at 02:33

Lavender has always fascinated me, along with other essential oils. I have not visited a lavender field yet, but it has been on my bucket list for the longest time. Unfortunately, though, there are not many in my hometown area. Piedmont looks like an absolutely gorgeous area to visit in Italy and I would love to try the lavender bread and enkirotto!

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:30

    Hi Melissa! Yes, Piedmont is a beautiful region of Italy and its lavender fields are just gorgeous 🙂

Arnav Mathur 11 July 2020 at 21:41

Sale San Giovanni is one quaint little picturesque hamlet that I so wish to visit someday. TBH I really love such quaint towns and villages, as compared to the touristy and popular cities.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:27

    I love them too 🙂

Kaitlin Terese 12 July 2020 at 00:42

Oh, how I do enjoy lavender. From flowers to tea, and even cosmetics! I just love the color and scent. I recently was looking up lavender fields here in the US to visit since travel is hard due to COVID currently. But to visit the fields in Piedmont would be incredible! The village alone is so pretty and looks exactly what I picture when I think of classic Italy. Thank you for sharing this beautiful location! I really hope once the world goes back to normal to travel and visit here!

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:25

    Fingers crossed Kaitlin, Italy is waiting for you!

Nish 12 July 2020 at 08:27

Oh my! Those fields of lavender are so pretty! It’s so hard trying to plan a visit to Italy. There are so many places to see! Ideally, I’d love to have a month to devote to the country.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:22

    I totally understand Nish. I’m Italian and I still have such a long list of places to see that it always takes me ages to decide where to go first, ahaha

Raksha 13 July 2020 at 09:41

Wow, I love those lavender fields. I have seen them in Tasmania and I know how pretty those fields can be. I have never travelled anywhere in Italy other than Rome and I would love to add Piedmont to my list the next time I come to visit. I would love to take some awesome pictures among those fields.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:20

    There’s so much beauty in Italy beyond Rome…a good reason to come back soon and explore more 🙂

Yukti Agrawal 13 July 2020 at 22:07

I never knew that there are amazing lavender fields in Italy too. For me, France is famous for lavender, but it is great you share this unique Italian place that is just as beautiful. I love this type of quirky small places, adding this to my Italy itinerary.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:19

    I know, France may be the queen of lavender but we have some beautiful fields in Italy too 🙂

Ann 14 July 2020 at 13:31

Aww these photos are so pretty, such a picturesque place! Those lavender fields are just stunning. The Church of te Holy Cross look so beautiful, I could walk around and admire its interiors. I would also love to try the agnolotti del plin as I’m a huge fan of pasta but I don’t think I’ve ever tried that type.

    Val 8 August 2020 at 17:17

    Thank you Ann! Agnolotti del plin are delicious and typical of this region 🙂

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Ciao! I’m Val

Ciao! I’m Val

Ciao! I'm Valentina, an Italian blogger with a huge passion for my country, its culture and traditions. My Italian Diaries is the online space where I share my expert knowledge of itineraries, activities and off-the-beaten path places to help you experience the best of Italy like a local.

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